12 Months of Stoke

It’s been 12 months since the road trip that changed my life. What I thought was just a surf adventure with my flag football team turned out to be the first chapter of my surf story. I’m a lot darker now, my hair is no longer pure black, and I’m currently sporting a medium-sized bruise on my right cheek as I type this but I’m proud to say I have no regrets. I learned a lot about myself because of surfing and I can no longer imagine living without it.

Since that roadtrip, I found myself boarding a bus almost every week to Zambales. I didn’t mind that I had to sit for hours and I didn’t care that I was getting darker each week. Every trip to Zambales gave me the feeling that I’m on my way home. I fell in love with the place, the sport and the people that’s why it was very difficult for me when I had to disappear for six months due to certain circumstances.

My heart longed for Zambales that’s why I made sure that I’ll pay the place a visit one more time before I go back to Mindanao. I wanted to celebrate my 12 months of surfing + my 26th year in the place where it all began. I also wanted to surf again.

Home sweet home!
Home sweet home!
With my fave board. :3
With my favorite board :3

I joined my friend Vince who left for Zambales last Friday at 3 in the morning. I was very excited to go back I didn’t sleep at all! We stopped by Jaro’s house in San Marcelino. We also had breakfast there. When we were approaching Liwliwa, I was grinning from ear to ear.  I missed how the concrete road ends all of a sudden, making the car dance as it makes its way through the sand. When we arrived, I ran to our cottage to see how it is. After putting my things down, I went to the beach with Jing and Panke ride the pretty neat swells that were waiting to be ridden.  We surfed from 8 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon. We were so stoked!

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Where the wave kisses the shore no matter how many times it’s pushed back… featuring Pangke’s surfboard.
The closest I can get to cross stepping.
Baby steps.
I missed this kind of tired.
I missed this kind of tired.

My day trip turned into a 5-day vacation when I had to cancel my trip back to Manila because of typhoon. I planned on leaving at 3 am the next day, but I had to forget about leaving when I woke up to the sound of strong winds, trees being snapped in half, and waves that sounded like the Mavericks. I slept dry but woke up wet because water entered our cottage. There was also a power outage so we had to work with light from our cellphones and my trusty mini flashlight. After changing sleeping positions for the third time, we finally fell asleep despite the chaos that was happening outside. When we woke up the next morning, this is what we saw:

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Photo by Vince Dayrit

The rain didn’t stop, and the water level rose to around 12 inches from my waist. Since there wasn’t much for us to do that day, all of us stayed in the cottage and waited for the rain to stop.

There wasn’t a lot of improvement in the weather conditions the next day but since we wanted to surf, we made our way to Pundaquit. It was my first time and I was excited to finally experience two surf spots: Magic Left and River Mouth. When we arrived, I decided to surf at Magic Left since the waves in River Mouth were too big. I spent the morning paddling, riding, rolling with every wipeout and eventually hitting myself with a fun board (but still feeling the stoke). In the afternoon, I decided to stay at the shore and take pictures of my friends since I’ve been fighting the urge to shoot since morning.

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Ping Danila
Vince Dayrit
Vince Dayrit
Pangke Tapec
Pangke Tapec
DK Pasallan
DK Pasallan
Caloy Reyes
Caloy Reyes
IMG_4274
Mike Bonifacio
Carlo Guillermo
Carlo Guillermo
Kiko Lacuesta
Kiko Lacuesta
The stoked shutterbug.
The stoked shutterbug. (c) Ping Danila
With the gang. ^_^ (L-R Shine, Aliya, Pangke, Brian, Vince, DK)
With the gang. ^_^ (L-R Shine, Aliya, Pangke, Brian, Vince, DK)

Since all of us were stoked after the surf session, we went back to Pundaquit the next day. This time, I gave my camera to Kuya Ping, who then gave it to Gab Sarmiento, the editor-in-chief of Blunt Magazine. It was a good rainy surf session.

Out of the water, I am nothing. (c) Ping Danila
Out of the water, I am nothing. (c) Ping Danila
DK Pasallan | (c) Gab Sarmiento
DK Pasallan | (c) Ping Danila
Love. <3 (c) Ping Danila
Love.
Shine Pasallan
Shine Pasallan
Caloy Reyes | (c) Ping Danila
Caloy Reyes | (c) Ping Danila
Vince Dayrit (c) Gab Sarmiento
Vince Dayrit (c) Ping Danila
Kiko Lacuesta
Kiko Lacuesta (c) Gab Sarmiento

I went back to Manila with a happy heart. I was reminded of why I fell in love in the first place, and why I had the patience to sit in the bus for hours and the strength to get back on the board and paddle out with each wipe out. I realized that although some of my Liwa memories have been tainted because of some situations that made me run to the shore and cry my heart out, there’s still a lot of good things that Liwa has to offer, like… sleeping in a hammock during an impromptu slumber party because of the power outage, buying strawberry ice cream and Mog-Mogu at Seevuhn Ehleevuhn, going to the market and cooking meals with the gang, listening to the “telenovela” courtesy of the friendly neighborhood skatekids featuring TK, endless laughtrip sessions, late night and early morning discussions, random trips to Pundaquit, and a whole lot more.

This was my home for 5 days. I miss this place already.
This was my home for 5 days. I miss this place already.
Kuya Ping preparing breakfast for the gang.
Kuya Ping preparing breakfast for the gang.
Slumber party! :)
Slumber party! 🙂

My day trip may have been extended because of typhoon but if that didn’t happen, I wouldn’t have had the chance to really meet the people I met. Most of them, I knew since last year but didn’t really get the chance to bond with because we had our own groups. I guess it’s true what they say, you can only connect the dots backwards. If things didn’t go the way they did, I wouldn’t have had this much appreciation for what happened during that 5-day trip. This trip made me realize that I do have friends. Well… family disguised as friends.

I’m writing this with a heart that’s grateful and happy. I’m still stoked from everything that happened during the trip. My mind’s currently operating as a mini movie theater, and I keep pressing the replay button to relive everything that happened.

I’m so excited to come back for my next Liwa adventure. Liwa friends, thank you. I owe 5 days’ worth of epic Liwa memories to all of you. 🙂

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